Chanel may be over a century old, but the brand remains as relevant as ever.
According to Statista, it ranks among the most recognizable luxury fashion houses in the U.S., alongside Gucci and Dior. Much of Chanel’s enduring appeal can be traced back to its iconic founder, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel.
The Beginnings of a Fashion Empire
Coco Chanel launched her eponymous label in 1910, starting her journey in fashion as a milliner. Her first shop, Chanel Modes, was located at 21 Rue Cambon. Early on, French actresses like Gabrielle Dorziat helped elevate Chanel’s profile by wearing her designs on and off stage.
By 1915, Chanel expanded her reach with two additional stores in the coastal cities of Deauville and Biarritz. This was also when she introduced ready-to-wear designs and fashionable sportswear made from jersey, a lightweight fabric initially used for men’s underwear. Chanel’s innovative use of jersey helped liberate women from the constraints of corsetry, leading to immediate success.
At her first couture house in Biarritz, Chanel employed 300 artisans to create her debut haute couture collection. Three years later, she opened her Paris boutique at 31 Rue Cambon, which remains a cornerstone of the brand today.
Iconic Fragrance: Chanel No.5
In 1921, Chanel collaborated with perfumer Ernest Beaux to launch her first fragrance, Chanel No.5. With notes of jasmine and musk, it quickly became one of the world’s best-selling perfumes. The name “No.5” was chosen because it was the fifth sample Chanel liked best, and she believed the number would bring her good luck.
Chanel also revolutionized perfume packaging by opting for a simple bottle design, contrasting with the elaborate crystal flasks common at the time. The bottle’s design was reportedly inspired by a whiskey decanter owned by her lover, Captain Arthur Edward “Boy” Capel. The fragrance gained further fame when Marilyn Monroe famously stated in a 1952 interview, “I only wear Chanel No.5 to bed.”
Fashion Innovations: The Tweed Suit and Little Black Dress
Chanel’s relationship with the Duke of Westminster inspired one of her most famous creations: the tweed skirt suit. During vacations in the Scottish highlands, Chanel adapted the woolen knit favored by sportsmen, creating lighter, more colorful versions adorned with fur trim and metallic threads.
One of the most iconic tweed suits was worn by Jackie Kennedy, who famously donned a pink version on the day of her husband’s assassination. Despite being advised to wear American designers, she found a loophole by having a Park Avenue boutique create the suit using materials from Chanel.
In the 1920s, Chanel also pioneered the flapper look, moving away from the restrictive hourglass silhouettes of previous eras. In 1926, she introduced the now-famous “little black dress,” which was celebrated for its simple yet elegant design. Chanel once remarked, “Scheherezade is easy; a little black dress is difficult,” highlighting the versatility and timelessness of this wardrobe staple.
The Camellia and the 2.55 Bag
The camellia flower has become a signature motif for Chanel, appearing in various designs and packaging. This floral connection dates back to Chanel’s youth and her affinity for Alexandre Dumas’ “The Lady of the Camellias.” The first camellia design was launched in 1933, and it continues to be a prominent element in Chanel’s collections.
Another iconic product is the quilted 2.55 bag, introduced in 1955. Named for its creation date, the 2.55 features a rectangular “mademoiselle” lock, a nod to Coco, who never married. Its design prioritized both fashion and function, allowing for hands-free carrying at a time when top-handle purses were the norm.
Chanel’s Enduring Legacy
Coco Chanel passed away in 1971 at the age of 87, but her influence on the fashion world remains profound. She continued designing until her death, and her creations are still considered fashion essentials today. Chanel’s life has inspired numerous films, television shows, and stage productions, including the recent ballet “Coco Chanel: The Life of a Fashion Icon,” which debuted in Hong Kong in 2023.
Chanel has been portrayed by various actresses, including Audrey Tautou and Shirley MacLaine, with Juliette Binoche recently taking on the role in the Apple TV+ miniseries “The New Look,” which explores the rise of Christian Dior while shedding light on Chanel’s controversial past.
As Chanel searches for a new creative director following Virginie Viard’s departure in 2024, the brand continues to thrive financially. Last year, Chanel reported revenues of $19.7 billion, reflecting a 16 percent increase, with double-digit growth across all categories, largely driven by price increases.
