Alessandro Michele’s debut as creative director of Valentino was one of the most anticipated events at September 2024 Paris Fashion Week.
On Sunday, September 29, 2024, the show took place at the Porte de Châtillon, marking the first collaboration between the iconic fashion house and Michele.
Expectations were high for Michele to bring his distinctive creative flair, reminiscent of his time at Gucci. For the Spring/Summer 2025 collection, he indeed tapped into his bohemian-chic aesthetic and love for extravagance.
“After a year and a half of discussions, I signed the contract in three days,”
Michele noted in a press release.
His ‘flower power’ spirit shone through in a variety of dresses featuring floral motifs, metallic embroideries, turbans, wide jeans, and sequins. The collection also showcased his penchant for the extravagant with wide-brimmed hats reminiscent of those worn during Paul Poiret’s era and large feather boas. Romantic elements included white lace tights, muslin veils, and bow ties.
The heritage of Valentino was evident in the use of polka dots—a recurring motif for this Spring/Summer 2025 line. These patterns appeared on dresses and jackets, as well as on shoes and boots inspired by the Balletcore trend. The iconic ‘Valentino Red’ was prominently featured in dresses, lace tights, bow ties, and accessories like belts and hats.
Michele also incorporated elements from the Office Core trend in the masculine looks presented on the runway. His unique touch was evident in the jewelry choices: pearl necklaces made from white mother-of-pearl, faux piercings on lips or as earrings, lace gloves, and red collars.
The famous Rockstud bags, introduced in 2010 by previous artistic directors, were reimagined into round metal and lace-up styles that leaned more toward a 70s vibe rather than their rock-inspired roots. Fringes became another must-have detail alongside intricate embroideries and bucolic prints featuring cherries and flowers on smaller models. A new shopper bag featuring a large “V” was also introduced as part of the pre-collection.
The show’s soundtrack featured “Passacaglia della Vita,” a re-release of a 17th-century song reflecting on life’s cyclical nature. Michele’s overarching theme for this collection was “beauty” in its most delicate and romantic form.
“Immersed as we are in the absurd infinity of becoming, we feel an urgent need to give meaning to this world of turmoil,”
said Michele.
“Beauty can take shape as a remedy to the anxiety generated by the evanescent nature of our destiny—an anchor point to navigate this ‘pavilion of follies’ we call life.”
