At Burberry, the biggest name at London Fashion Week, the clothes on the catwalk hinted at the next chapter in an ongoing fashion industry drama.
This month, Burberry dropped out of the FTSE 100 with a valuation of £2.23 billion, a staggering 56% decline from its worth at the end of last year.
In July, Joshua Schulman was appointed as the new chief executive in a bold move to reverse the company’s long-standing decline.
Schulman, known for boosting profits and visibility at American brand Coach through affordable handbags, signifies a change in direction for Burberry. The brand has struggled to attract high-end luxury shoppers, and Schulman is expected to broaden Burberry’s appeal by lowering price points and focusing on accessible designs rather than avant-garde styles.
At the National Theatre, where a catwalk wound past a front row filled with celebrities like Jerry Hall, Patsy Kensit, Olivia Colman, and Declan Rice, young creative director Daniel Lee showcased his latest collection under pressure. Despite rumors that he might be leaving, Lee delivered his strongest work yet—confidently bold and refreshingly appealing.
Backstage, Lee expressed enthusiasm for this new era, praising Schulman’s “American optimism, drive, and positivity.” He referenced the successful partnership of Angela Ahrendts and Christopher Bailey in the past, saying,
“Burberry in its heyday enjoyed American CEO leadership with a British designer. Hopefully that’s a synergy we can revive.”
For customers seeking accessible luxury, recognizable designer pieces are essential. For Burberry, this means prominently featuring its iconic check pattern throughout the collection—in saddle bags and tracksuits. “I really like the check,” Lee stated. “I want to treat it as one of the most precious elements of the house, in the way that the trench is.”
The first piece to grace the runway was a men’s jacket with trench detailing but reimagined into a more streamlined and wearable shape. While the trench coat is a hallmark of Burberry’s identity, men tend to purchase more jackets than coats.
“We need to find smart ways to evolve Burberry beyond a runway collection to what works in stores,”
Lee explained. “Burberry is a coat brand, and a coat is something people invest in.”
