Chanel Ltd. will invest in MB&F to support the watchmaker and boost Chanel’s image in high-end watches.
Known for its innovative designs and unique watch movements, MB&F will sell a 25% stake to Chanel, as announced in a statement from the Geneva-based company on Thursday.
Maximilian Büsser, the founder and creative head of MB&F, expressed the importance of this deal, stating,
“It was our responsibility, in today’s very favorable context and with our management team in its prime, to take this major step to ensure our long-term future.”
The financial details of the transaction have not been disclosed. In 2023, MB&F produced 419 wristwatches, generating revenue of 45.4 million Swiss francs (approximately $53.3 million).
This agreement promises to bring stability to the 19-year-old watchmaker, especially amid a downturn in demand for luxury timepieces following a pandemic-era boom. Büsser will retain a majority 60% stake in the company, while Serge Kriknoff, MB&F’s head of R&D and production, holds a 15% stake. Both executives will continue to lead the company.
MB&F is renowned for its intricate, design-oriented timepieces that often resemble animals, such as spiders, panda bears, and bulldogs, as well as objects like cars and spaceships. Despite their high prices, which can exceed $100,000, the brand has generated waitlists for eager buyers.
For Chanel, this investment enhances its credibility in the watchmaking industry. The French fashion house produces approximately 75,000 of its own branded watches annually, with estimated sales of around 400 million Swiss francs, placing it among Switzerland’s top 25 watchmakers. Chanel has previously made minority investments in other independent Swiss brands, including Romain Gauthier in 2011 and F.P. Journe in 2018.
Frédéric Grangié, Chanel’s president of watches and fine jewelry, stated that the purchase of the MB&F stake aligns with the brand’s “long-term strategy to continue to preserve, develop, and invest in specialist know-how and expertise, reaffirming our position in high-end watchmaking.”
