David Koma has been named the new creative director of Blumarine, with his inaugural collection set to debut for pre-fall 2025. Notably, Blumarine is not listed on the preliminary schedule for Milan Fashion Week, which runs from September 17 to 23. This year marks the 15th anniversary of Koma’s own label, which has gained significant attention thanks to his first ad campaign for resort 2025, featuring Lourdes Leon, the daughter of pop icon Madonna.
Koma is known for his sculptural silhouettes and striking, sensual cocktail dresses and gowns, with a celebrity clientele that includes Jennifer Lopez, Olivia Rodrigo, and Gal Gadot. Recently, actress Florence Pugh showcased a David Koma t-shirt minidress from the resort 2025 collection at Comic-Con in San Diego. The dress, which featured a sparkling buckle and a dramatic floor-length train, was worn during a Marvel Studios panel for her upcoming film “Thunderbolts,” set to release in 2025. Koma established his London-based fashion house in 2009 after graduating from Central Saint Martins College and has been a regular participant in London Fashion Week ever since.
In April, he launched a new swimwear brand called Let’s Swim, in collaboration with childhood friends, which operates independently from his main label. Additionally, in the summer of 2023, he designed several looks for Beyoncé’s “Renaissance World Tour.” Marco Marchi, the sole director of Exelite (formerly known as Eccellenze Italiane), which owns Blumarine, expressed confidence in Koma’s ability to interpret the brand’s identity. Koma takes over from Walter Chiapponi, who left Blumarine after just one collection in March. Prior to Chiapponi, Nicola Brognano designed for the brand for four years. In his own words, Koma remarked,
“Blumarine embodies a unique blend of sensuality, timeless glamour, and elegance that I have always admired. It is an honour to write the next chapter in the brand’s illustrious history. I am excited to celebrate Blumarine’s rich, creative heritage while infusing it with my own modern vision. The brand’s feminine aesthetic deeply resonates with me, making this journey feel incredibly authentic. I am eager to craft collections that inspire and captivate our audience, ushering in an exciting new era of innovation and creativity at this esteemed house.”
In November 2019, Marchi acquired Gruppo Blufin and its brands, including Blumarine, Blugirl, Anna Molinari, and Be Blumarine, from the founding Tarabini family.
The creation of the Eccellenze Italiane conglomerate aimed to enhance the visibility and business of small and medium-sized Italian companies on the global stage. Marchi has previously indicated that the ultimate goal for the group is an initial public offering.
