“I love Meryl Streep,” designer Elie Saab said backstage before his Spring 2025 show, reflecting a sentiment shared by many.
The admiration is mutual; Streep famously wore Saab to the Oscars in 2017 and praised his work at that time.
Saab revealed that a recent rewatch of one of his favorite Streep films, the 1985 Best Picture winner Out of Africa, inspired this season’s collection.
The collection features safari jackets and a sportier aesthetic from the Lebanese designer.
“These colors, for me, are really freeing,”
he noted.
Instead of the typical black, Saab opted for a dark khaki green as his base neutral, accented with pops of deep brick and dusty rose. A subtle micro leopard print added an interesting touch without overwhelming the designs.
Saab experimented with new textures and materials, incorporating raffia into dresses, skirts, and tops. He also used a softer waffle weave knit on slim silhouettes adorned with floral appliqués, shorts, bikini tops, and cardigans.
The designer played with palm frond shapes in embroidery and sequins, enhancing the runway’s atmosphere by surrounding it with palms and vines to contrast with the Palais de Tokyo’s stark modernity. Soft, S-curve shaped dresses in lighter, flowing fabrics paid homage to Streep’s style in the film while maintaining a modern silhouette for dresses and jumpsuits cinched at the waist.
Daywear was a significant focus, featuring bandeaus, crop tops, or corsets paired with trousers or full skirts. Raffia appeared on totes and beach-ready bucket hats. Saab also reimagined his monogram by incorporating it into a metal collar that anchored one gown. Bold brass cuffs and chunky accessories offset the delicacy of many sheer textiles in the collection.
Saab’s lighter touch in this collection reflects his creative freedom as he prepares for a major fashion show and entertainment extravaganza planned for Riyadh Season on November 13.