London is buzzing with excitement as the highly anticipated party hosted by high-street retailer H&M and pop sensation Charli XCX kicks off London Fashion Week on Thursday.
This year’s event, which runs until Tuesday, promises to be a game-changer, especially with two shows dedicated to sustainability.
The Spring/Summer 2025 schedule had been locked in for weeks when H&M announced its collaboration with Charli XCX, instantly overshadowing some of the biggest names in the industry.
“Forget the luxury shows… The only ticket anyone cares about is one to the H&M party,” declared London’s The Standard. Meanwhile, The Times dubbed it the “hottest London Fashion Week ticket.”
Charli XCX’s recent rise in popularity has been dubbed the “brat girl summer,” following the release of her hyper-pop album, Brat. This trend has infiltrated social media, politics, and now fashion, showcasing an aesthetic that embodies party-girl energy mixed with youthful anxiety.
Excitement from the British Fashion Council
Caroline Rush, chief executive of the British Fashion Council (BFC), expressed her enthusiasm for the collaboration, calling it “exciting.” This year marks the 40th anniversary of London Fashion Week, and the BFC is eager to stay relevant to younger audiences, especially after witnessing a departure of designers over the last two decades.
Over the next week, 72 designers will showcase their collections, featuring established names like JW Anderson, Erdem, Paul Costelloe, and Burberry, alongside emerging talents. The BFC’s NEWGEN space will also highlight up-and-coming creatives.
However, some designers, such as cult favorite Dilara Findikoglu, have been absent from recent fashion weeks due to financial constraints. “It is a challenging time for the industry, especially for small independents,” Rush noted, referencing the impact of the pandemic and rising shipping fees post-Brexit.
Sustainability will take center stage at this year’s Fashion Week, addressing the fashion industry’s reputation as one of the world’s largest polluters. A report by the non-profit group Collective Fashion Justice revealed that less than four percent of BFC members have set emission reduction targets.
Brands like H&M, Shein, and Zara have faced criticism for their fast-fashion practices, which prioritize rapid production at the expense of environmental and labor protections. In preparation for the LFW event, H&M wiped its Instagram clean and shared a striking image of Charli XCX in a leopard-print coat from its new collection. One social media user commented on the marketing strategy, likening it to fast fashion:
“Get rid of everything you had to buy the new collection.”
H&M claims to be taking steps to reduce its environmental impact by using recycled materials, among other initiatives.
In a twist, H&M’s opening night will also feature two “pre-loved” runways aimed at promoting slow and cyclical fashion. Charity Oxfam and second-hand online marketplace Vinted have teamed up for a show that will highlight handed-down and recycled clothing. Additionally, online auction platform eBay will host its first-ever LFW “Endless Runway” catwalk, showcasing high-fashion pre-loved items that will be available for purchase on its live shopping platform during the show.
