Kent & Curwen, the menswear brand with a history in Eton ties, is placing a bet on preppy style as the next big thing in streetwear.
The brand aims to reposition itself as the British equivalent of Polo Ralph Lauren.
Founded in 1926, Kent & Curwen began by producing club and college ties for Oxford and Cambridge universities, as well as sports kits for rowers at Henley and rugby players at Eton. In the 1930s, the brand became the official outfitter for the Hollywood Cricket Club, which included notable members like Errol Flynn and Boris Karloff.
In recent years, Kent & Curwen has attracted attention from the British royal family, including Diana, Princess of Wales. Footballer David Beckham also invested in the brand in 2016 and became its face under parent company Trinity Group.
However, the brand has faced difficulties, particularly when Hong Kong-based Trinity Group went into administration in 2022. Last year, Kent & Curwen was acquired by Guangzhou-based Biem. L. Fdlkk Garment Group, which also owns the Parisian menswear label Cerruti 1881 and its golf clothing line.
Relaunching at London Fashion Week
For Spring/Summer 2025, Kent & Curwen made a splash during London Fashion Week under the creative direction of Daniel Kearns. He has returned to create collections that include menswear, womenswear, and accessories inspired by the concept of school and sporting ‘uniforms.’
Kearns aims to capture the subversion and eccentricity of classic British style. The new collection plays with elements of its heritage while offering a nostalgic yet modern take on traditional British staples like rugby shirts and trench coats—perfect for the “come-as-you-are spirit of the British eccentric.”
The collection is designed to be genderless, encouraging pieces to be “shared and borrowed.” This marks Kent & Curwen’s first venture into womenswear with trousers that wrap around the body, pleated skirts revealing boxer shorts underneath, and patterned scarves framing jackets and shirts. The designs incorporate country furnishing fabrics with touches inspired by an English country garden.
The iconic club tie makes a return in various forms—worn traditionally, tied at the waist, or transformed into a dress. The rose emblem appears embossed or stitched into fabric, leather, or crochet as a tactile reminder of its heritage. Additionally, cricket sweaters feature the brand’s Three Lions emblem inspired by the Kent family crest.
Kearns also drew upon a castle motif from the brand’s archives to honor its history while symbolizing personal growth—the act of becoming “the king of one’s own castle.”
Accessories stand out with classic school satchels and book holders alongside backless house slippers, Mary Janes, and leather loafers lined in red—a nod to red socks worn by founder Eric Kent.
“The emphasis is on an unaffected, singular British sense of style—a journey from belonging to becoming,”
explains Kent & Curwen in their show notes.
