The jacket is being showcased in a new exhibition at Printemps’ flagship store in Paris. “Vestologie” is the name of the show and it will be running until October 13.
It includes designs from well-known brands such as Dior, Rabanne, McQueen, Balenciaga, and Jean Paul Gaultier.
The exhibition also includes vintage suit catalogs from the retailer’s Brummell menswear brand and designs by students from Esmod International’s schools in France.
Curators Sylvie Marot and Marlène Van de Casteele aimed to create an educational yet accessible experience. Marot explained, “We wanted to ensure that both museum-goers and shoppers could appreciate it without feeling overwhelmed.” The exhibit is designed to be enjoyable for everyone, from young children to seniors.
The 5,920-square-foot space is divided into eight alcoves, each with titles like “Uniform/Informal,” “Fitted/Oversized,” and “Leisure Class/Working Class.” Highlights include Dior’s iconic Bar jacket, a well-worn Schott biker jacket, and a classic black tuxedo from Saint Laurent.
Marot’s personal favourite is a puff-sleeved, corseted piece from Dries Van Noten’s Spring 2017 collection, which features an ecru canvas resembling the cotton muslin toile used for making test garments.
“It’s both simple and complex, and if I had to wear one tonight, it would be that one,”
she shared.
A workshop section of the exhibition highlights the technical skills needed to create a jacket. At the entrance, a toile by Nathan Vandenberghe, a bachelor student at Esmod Paris, takes centre stage. Vandenberghe won a competition organized by the department store, showcasing the importance of student involvement.
Véronique Beaumont, Esmod International’s chief operating officer, emphasized the significance of this collaboration, noting the parallels between Printemps and Esmod in their presence both in France and internationally. She added that it provides students with valuable face-to-face interaction with consumers, a crucial experience often lacking in fashion education.
The exhibition also aims to reflect the sociological changes represented by jackets, including their role in women’s emancipation. Stéphane Roth, chief marketing and communication officer at Printemps, stated,
“The exhibit intersects various messages—from political to social, and from beauty to practicality.”
He noted that this is the first exhibition held by Printemps since the late 1980s. Roth expressed a desire for the historic cupola, renovated in 2015, to serve as a gathering place, as originally intended by Printemps’ founders.
In conjunction with the exhibit, Courrèges is offering a selection of exclusive products in a pop-up space located in the basement atrium of the department store, which will be open until October 20.
