Ulla Johnson’s Spring 2025 collection at NYFW blended art and fashion, inspired by abstract expressionist Lee Krasner.
This collaboration with the Krasner estate, which took two years to develop, allowed Johnson to transform Krasner’s expressive brushstrokes and vibrant color palettes into stunning wearable art.
The collection featured garments that translated Krasner’s paintings, such as Comet and Palingenesis, into fashion. Flowing midi dresses, printed cotton sportswear, and oversized blazers brought abstract, organic shapes and bold colors to life. Johnson’s fusion of Krasner’s painterly elements with her signature bohemian aesthetic resulted in pieces that felt both artistic and contemporary.
An intriguing aspect of the collection was its gender-fluid nature. Some pieces, initially designed for women, were modeled by men, hinting at a potential exploration into menswear. This approach added versatility and blurred the lines between traditional gender norms in fashion. The collection also balanced artistry with functionality, featuring military-inspired jackets, patch-pocket denim, and tailored blazers that offered practical yet stylish options.
This collaboration was more than just a visual feast; it served as a tribute to Krasner’s artistic legacy and Johnson’s evolving journey as a designer. By incorporating art directly into her designs, Johnson pushed the boundaries of traditional fashion, transforming the runway into a celebration of creativity and craftsmanship.
