Blumarine’s designs appear to copy Muyishime’s culturally rich work.

At the heart of the controversy is African brand, Muyishime by designer Edi Patrick, whose deeply personal and culturally rich work appears to have been mirrored in Blumarine’s recent designs under the creative direction of David Koma.

The imagery—particularly the symbolic use of roses and the models’ tear-streaked faces—was more than just an artistic choice for Muyishime; it reflected personal and cultural narratives. However, the designer’s work seems to have been referenced without recognition, sparking frustration within the fashion community.

“To the industry, if you’re going to reference me, at least have the courage to say my name… I am open to collaboration, but if I’m not involved, please keep me off your moodboards,”

Muyishime shared in response to the controversy.

This situation once again raises the question: where does inspiration end and appropriation begin? While fashion has always been a space for creative exchange, failing to acknowledge the origins of a concept—especially when it carries deep emotional and cultural weight—risks erasing the very voices that shape the industry’s evolution.

As the conversation gains momentum, it remains to be seen whether Blumarine and David Koma will address the controversy—or acknowledge the designer whose pain, as he asserts, “isn’t to be stolen.”