Papa Oppong has always envisioned himself as a storyteller. Growing up in Ghana, the rich oral history shared by his grandmother inspired him. “There’s a dialogue in the clothes.”
He explains.
“It connects back to Africa, to Ghana, and to the folktales and folklores. Clothing becomes a tangible object through which people can feel a connection to these stories.”
As a womenswear designer with an MFA in Fashion Design from the Fashion Institute of Technology, Oppong emphasizes the importance of “ideas, not designs” in his work. He reflects on how playing with Barbie dolls as a child sparked his imagination. “Barbie can be a doctor one day and a surfer the next. I wanted to be like that doll—able to transform into anything.”
Though he chose his unique name for his label, Oppong’s approach is anything but individualistic. He collaborates closely with a talented team and makes it a point to acknowledge everyone involved in bringing his visions to life. “I know my strengths and weaknesses,” he says. “I work with professionals in New York City and Ghana. My process is traditional; it starts with an idea or concept, and then I rely on my team to help realize it.”
Having grown up in Accra before moving to New York City, Oppong weaves his heritage into each piece while challenging conventional perceptions of African fashion. He addresses the limitations often placed on African designers, asserting that honouring one’s roots doesn’t mean solely focusing on traditional prints. “African fashion is more than that,” he insists. “The kente fabric you see may not be the typical colours, but it’s still handwoven from the Northern region of Ghana.”
Quality and craftsmanship are at the forefront of his namesake label. Oppong critiques the Western definition of luxury, stating, “African luxury differs significantly from Western luxury. No one is going to sell a mink coat in Ghana; it’s too hot for that. But luxury can mean beloved textiles woven by hand. Craftsmanship is a luxury.”
In an era dominated by fast fashion, Oppong refuses to conform to what he calls the “microwave age.” He proudly discusses the intention behind his clothing, noting, “I take a huge risk; pieces can take up to four weeks to make. I have to coordinate with my mom back home to communicate with artisans in Northern Ghana. It’s a lengthy process, but I love it because so many hands contribute to each piece.”
His approach is community-centred, focusing on preservation and visibility for all African designers. When asked about the future of African fashion, Oppong expresses his hopes passionately. “I just want more opportunities. We need to be included in conversations about design. Why aren’t there African designers on the Couture Week calendar?” he asks fiercely.
With Ghana close to his heart, Oppong’s journey is about preserving craftsmanship and honouring those who came before him. His ultimate aspiration is simple: he hopes that one day, others will remember and recite the stories of his legacy.
